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THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO
THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO CARL LUMHOLTZ MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF SCIENCES OF CHRISTIANIA NORWAY GOLD MEDALLIST OF
THE NORWEGIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY ASSOCIE ETRANGER DE LA SOCIETE DE
L'ANTHROPOLOGIE DE PARIS ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR AND WITH MAP
We may safely affirm that the better specimens of savages are much
superior to the lower examples of civilized peoples.
_Alfred Russel Wallace._
PREFACE
Ever since my camping life with the aborigines of Queensland many years
ago it has been my desire to explore New Guinea the promised land of all
who are fond of nature and ambitious to discover fresh secrets. In
furtherance of this purpose their Majesties the King and Queen of Norway
the Norwegian Geographical Society the Royal Geographical Society of
London and Koninklijk Nederlandsch Aardrijkskundig Genootschap
generously assisted me with grants thus facilitating my efforts to raise
the necessary funds. Subscriptions were received in Norway also from
American and English friends and after purchasing the principal part of
my outfit in London I departed for New York in the autumn of 1913 en
route for the Dutch Indies. In 1914 having first paid a visit to the
Bulungan in northeast Borneo in order to engage the necessary Dayaks I
was preparing to start for Dutch New Guinea when the war broke out.
Under these changed conditions his Excellency the Governor-General
A.W.F. Idenburg regretted his inability to give me a military escort and
other assistance needed for carrying out my plan and advised me to await
a more favorable opportunity. During this interval having meanwhile
visited India I decided to make an expedition through Central Borneo
large tracts of which are unexplored and unknown to the outside world. My
project was later extended to include other regions of Dutch Borneo and
the greater part of two years was spent in making researches among its
very interesting natives. In these undertakings I received the valuable
assistance of their Excellencies the governor-general and the commanding
general as well as the higher officials of the Dutch Government to all
of whom I wish to express my heartfelt thanks.
Through the courtesy of the well-known Topografische Inrichting in
Batavia a competent surveyor whose work will later be published was
attached to my expeditions. He did not accompany me on my first visit to
the Bulungan nor on the second occasion when I went to the lake of
Sembulo where the country is well known. In the map included in this book
I have indicated the locations of the different tribes in Dutch Borneo
based on information gathered from official and private sources and on my
own observations.
I usually had a taxidermist first a trained Sarawak Dayak later a
Javanese to collect mammals and birds. Fishes and reptiles were also
preserved in alcohol.
Specimens of ethnological interest were collected from the different
tribes visited; the collection from the Penihings I believe is complete.
Measurements of 227 individuals were taken and as soon as practicable will
be worked out by Doctor K.S. Schreiner professor at the University of
Christiania. Vocabularies were collected from most of the tribes. In spite
of adverse conditions due to climate and the limitations under which I
travelled a satisfactory collection of photographic plates and films was
brought back. With few exceptions these photographs were taken by myself.
For the pictures facing page 26 I am indebted to Doctor J.C.
Koningsberger President of the Volksraad Buitenzorg Java. Those facing
pages 16 and 17 were taken by Mr. J.F. Labohm. The lower picture facing
page 286 was taken by Mr. A.M. Erskine.
My observations on the tribes are recorded in conformity with my itinerary
and include the Kayans Kenyahs Murungs Penyahbongs Saputans the
nomadic Punans and Bukits Penihings Oma-Sulings Long-Glats Katingans
Duhoi (Ot-Danums) and the Tamoans. On one or two occasions when gathering
intelligence from natives I was very fortunate in my informants--an
advantage which will be appreciated by any one who has undertaken a similar
errand and has enjoyed the keen satisfaction experienced when drawing the
veil from primitive thought which lies so near and yet so far away.
Circumstances naturally prevented me from making a thorough study of any
tribe but I indulge the hope that the material here presented may prove
in some degree acceptable to the specialist as well as to the general
reader. Matter that was thought to be of purely anthropological interest
is presented in a special supplement. Above all I have abstained from
generalities to which one might be tempted on account of the many
similarities encountered in the tribes that were visited. Without the
light of experience it is impossible to imagine how much of interest and
delight there is in store for the student of man's primitive condition.
However as the captain of Long Iram said to me in Long Pahangei "One
must have plenty of time to travel in Borneo." I have pleasure in
recording here the judicious manner in which the Dutch authorities deal
with the natives.
On a future occasion I shall hope to be able to publish a detailed report
on several of the novel features of my Bornean collections especially as
regards decorative art the protective wooden carvings called kapatongs
the flying boat etc.
The first collections sent to Norway ran the risks incident to war. Most
of them were rescued from the storehouses at Antwerp after the German
occupation through the exertions of the Norwegian Foreign Office though
a smaller part chiefly zoological appears to have been lost in Genoa.
Count Nils Gyldenstolpe of the Natural History Museum
Vetenskapsakademien in Stockholm who is determining the mammals
collected informs me that so far a new species of flying maki and two new
subspecies of flying squirrels have been described.
To further my enterprise liberal gifts of supplies were received from
various firms in Christiania: preserved milk from Nestle & Anglo-Swiss
Condensed Milk Co. tobacco from Tiedemann's Fabrik alcohol for
preserving specimens from Loitens Braenderi cacao from Freia Chokolade
Fabrik. A medical outfit was presented by Mr. E. Sissener Apotheket
"Kronen" Christiania and Messrs. Burrows Wellcome & Co. of London
placed at my disposal three of their excellent medicinal travelling-cases.
I want to express my appreciation of many services rendered by the
Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij and its branches especially the
Factorij in Batavia. I am under similar obligations to the Koninklijke
Paketvaart-Maatschappij and my thanks are also due to De Scheepsagentuur
for courtesies received. Miss Ethel Newcomb of New York has kindly
transcribed the two songs rendered.
Finally I desire to make grateful acknowledgment of valuable assistance
rendered by Doctor J.C. Koningsberger and by Doctor W. van Bemmelen
director of Koninklijk Magnetisch en Meteorologisch Observatorium
Weltevreden Batavia.
Although force of circumstances altered the scope and to some extent the
character of this expedition nevertheless my Bornean experiences afforded
great satisfaction. Moreover my sojourn in the equatorial regions of the
East has imbued me with an even stronger desire to carry out my original
purpose which I hope to accomplish in the near future.
CARL LUMHOLTZ
NEW YORK April 1920.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
CHAPTER II
BORNEO--CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS--NATURAL RESOURCES--POPULATION--
HISTORY--GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES--RACIAL PROBLEMS.
CHAPTER III
BANDJERMASIN THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO--NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST
COAST--BALIK PAPAN AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE--SAMARINDA--TANDJONG
SELOR--THE SULTAN--UP THE KAYAN RIVER.
CHAPTER IV
AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS--RAPID CHANGE IN THE
DENSENESS OF VEGETATION--ANIMAL LIFE--A STUBBORN FIGHT
CHAPTER V
MEETING PUNANS THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE--DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN--MY
ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN--MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS
CHAPTER VI
RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER--LONG PANGIAN--BERI-BERI--
HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS--KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO--EFFECT OF A
SPIDER'S BITE
CHAPTER VII
ON THE ISAU RIVER--A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL--A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION--
CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER--TAKING OMENS--ENTERTAINING SCENES
CHAPTER VIII
THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER--FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS
OR RAPIDS--WITH KENYAH BOATMEN--ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING--LONG
PELABAN--THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS--SOCIAL STRATA--CUSTOMS AND
HABITS--VALUABLE BEADS
CHAPTER IX
HYDROPHOBIA--FUNERAL CEREMONIES--AT A PADDI HARVEST--ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING
EXPEDITION--THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN--INTERESTING CEREMONIES--ON
HEADHUNTING GROUND
CHAPTER X
IN FOG AND DARKNESS--A RAID BY ANTS--DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN--AN
EXCITING PASSAGE--RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR
CHAPTER XI
DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN--A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE--TWO HEAD-HUNTERS--
AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--SAMPIT--THE ORANG-UTAN--STORMY WEATHER--A
DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION
CHAPTER XII
THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS--CHOLERA--UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER--PURUK
TJAHU--DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS--A DANCING FEAST
CHAPTER XIII
DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD--ANIMISM--BLIANS THE
PRIEST-DOCTORS--THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS--WEDDINGS--IN PRIMITIVE
SURROUNDINGS
CHAPTER XIV
THE SCALY ANT-EATER--THE PORCUPINE--THE BLOW-PIPE--AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE
WITH A SNAKE--HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS--AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR
CHAPTER XV
FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO--CHRISTMAS TIME--EXTENT OF MALAY
INFLUENCE--THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS--AT AN OT-DANUM
KAMPONG--THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS OR RAPIDS--FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO
TRAVEL--MALAYS ON STRIKE
CHAPTER XVI
ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG--ON THE EQUATOR--A STARTLING ROBBERY--OUR
MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY--HORNBILLS--THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID
PENYAHBONG--ARRIVAL AT TAMALOE
CHAPTER XVII
THE PENYAHBONGS MEN OF THE WOODS--RHINOCEROS HUNTERS--CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE PENYAHBONGS--EASY HOUSEKEEPING--DAILY LIFE--WOMAN'S LOT
CHAPTER XVIII
A STRANGE MAMMAL--ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO--A SUPERB AND SILENT
REALM--VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION--PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE--A
MOUSE-DEER CHASE--ON THE KASAO RIVER
CHAPTER XIX
THE SAPUTANS--HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED--AN UNEXPECTED
ATTACK OF FILARIASIS--DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS--DOWN THE KASAO
RIVER--"TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS
CHAPTER XX
ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER--AMONG THE PENIHINGS--LONG KAI A PLEASANT
PLACE--A BLIAN'S SHIELD--PUNANS AND BUKATS SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS--EXTREME
PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS--LONG TJEHAN
CHAPTER XXI
AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER--LONG PAHANGEI--THE OMASULINGS--THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL--HOSPITABLE NATIVES--INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAPTER XXII
DAYAK DOGS--A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM--OUR RETURN JOURNEY--AGAIN AT LONG
TJEHAN--IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID--A BURIAL CAVE
CHAPTER XXIII
A PROFITABLE STAY--MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO--OMEN BIRDS--THE PENIHINGS
IN DAILY LIFE--TOP PLAYING--RELIGIOUS IDEAS--CURING DISEASE
CHAPTER XXIV
HEAD-HUNTING ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE
CHAPTER XXV
DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS--FRUIT-EATING FISH--ANOTHER CALL AT LONG
PAHANGEI--A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER--GENIAL NATIVES--AN INOPPORTUNE
VISIT--THE DURIAN QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS
CHAPTER XXVI
AMONG THE LONG-GLATS--IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED?--
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LONG-GLATS--GOODBYE TO THE MAHAKAM
CHAPTER XXVII
CONTINUING THE JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER--GREAT KIHAMS--BATOKELAU--AT
LONG IRAM--LAST STAGES OF OUR JOURNEY--ARRIVAL AT SAMARINDA--HINDU
ANTIQUITIES--NATIVE'S SUPERIORITY TO CIVILISED MAN
CHAPTER XXVIII
AN EARTHQUAKE--ERADICATING THE PLAGUE--THROUGH THE COUNTRY NORTHEAST
OF BANDJERMASIN--MARTAPURA AND ITS DIAMOND-FIELDS--PENGARON--THE GIANT
PIG--THE BUKITS--WELL-PRESERVED DECORATIVE DESIGNS--AN ATTRACTIVE FAMILY
CHAPTER XXIX
THE BALEI OR TEMPLE--A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY--A COURTEOUS
MALAY--POWER OVER ANIMALS--NEGARA.
CHAPTER XXX
AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER--TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY--THE
GATHERING OF HONEY--A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO--AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC
PRODUCTION--UP THE SAMBA RIVER--WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN
CHAPTER XXXI
AMONG THE DUHOI (OT-DANUMS)--RICH COLLECTIONS--THE KAPATONGS--THE BATHING
OF DAYAK INFANTS--CHRISTMAS EVE--THE FLYING BOAT--MARRIAGE CEREMONIES
CHAPTER XXXII
AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS--FACTS ABOUT ULU-OTS THE WILD MEN OF
BORNEO--TAKING LEAVE OF THE INTERESTING DUHOI--A VISIT TO THE UPPER
KATINGANS--DANCING--FRIENDLY NATIVES--DOWN THE KATINGAN RIVER
CHAPTER XXXIII
KASUNGAN--THE WEALTH OF THE DAYAKS--ANIMISM--GUARDIANS OF THE DEAD--HUGE
SERPENTS--CROCODILES--GOVERNMENT OF DAYS GONE BY--KATINGAN CUSTOMS AND
BELIEFS
CHAPTER XXXIV
FUNERAL CUSTOMS OF THE KATINGANS--DEPARTURE FROM KASUNGAN--AN ATTEMPTED
VISIT TO SEMBULO--INDIFFERENT MALAYS--A STRANGE DISEASE--THE BELIEF IN
TAILED PEOPLE--THE LEGEND OF THE ANCESTOR OF TAILED MEN
CHAPTER XXXV
A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS--A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS--THE SHORT-TAILED
CATS OF BORNEO--A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY
BERI-BERI--THE TAMOANS--THE PRACTICE OF INCISION
FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
CONCLUSION
SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
A SHORT GLOSSARY
INDEX
ILLUSTRATIONS
Carl Lumholtz in the Bulungan Dutch Borneo May 1914
In the jungle of Southern Borneo near the Sampit River
The Giant Taro (_Alocasia Macrorhiza_)
The Orang-Utan. A more than half-grown specimen
The Long-Nosed Monkey (_Nasalis Larvatus_) peculiar to Borneo
The Sultan of Bulungan
Chonggat the author's Dayak collector of animals and birds
Approaching Kaburau on the Kayan River
Banglan a Kayan and his family. Kaburau
Ladders below Long Pangian on the Kayan River
Young Kayan from Kaburau
Kayan from Kaburau. Shows a Chinese manner of hair-dressing
Kayan from Kaburau. Showing the distended ear lobes
Kayan child Kaburau
Kayan mother and infant. Near Long Pangian
Punans the shy nomads of the jungle
Punans near my camp
Punan using the sumpitan or blowpipe
Kayan climbing a tree
Kayan at the author's camp blowing a native wind instrument
The King Cobra (_Naia Bungarus_)
Young Orang-Utans
Kayan from Kaburau. Front side and back views
Kayan in mourning dress Kaburau
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