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NOTES ON A JOURNEY FROM CORNHILL TO GRAND CAIRO
NOTES ON A JOURNEY FROM CORNHILL TO GRAND CAIRO WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY DEDICATION
TO
CAPTAIN SAMUEL LEWIS
OF THE
PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY'S
SERVICE.
My Dear Lewis
After a voyage during which the captain of the ship has displayed
uncommon courage seamanship affability or other good qualities
grateful passengers often present him with a token of their esteem
in the shape of teapots tankards trays &c. of precious metal.
Among authors however bullion is a much rarer commodity than
paper whereof I beg you to accept a little in the shape of this
small volume. It contains a few notes of a voyage which your skill
and kindness rendered doubly pleasant; and of which I don't think
there is any recollection more agreeable than that it was the
occasion of making your friendship.
If the noble Company in whose service you command (and whose fleet
alone makes them a third-rate maritime power in Europe) should
appoint a few admirals in their navy I hope to hear that your flag
is hoisted on board one of the grandest of their steamers. But I
trust even there you will not forget the "Iberia" and the
delightful Mediterranean cruise we had in her in the Autumn of
1844.
Most faithfully yours
My dear Lewis
W. M. THACKERAY.
LONDON: December 24 1845.
PREFACE
On the 20th of August 1844 the writer of this little book went to
dine at the--Club quite unconscious of the wonderful events which
Fate had in store for him.
Mr. William was there giving a farewell dinner to his friend Mr.
James (now Sir James). These two asked Mr. Titmarsh to join
company with them and the conversation naturally fell upon the
tour Mr. James was about to take. The Peninsular and Oriental
Company had arranged an excursion in the Mediterranean by which
in the space of a couple of months as many men and cities were to
be seen as Ulysses surveyed and noted in ten years. Malta Athens
Smyrna Constantinople Jerusalem Cairo were to be visited and
everybody was to be back in London by Lord Mayor's Day.
The idea of beholding these famous places inflamed Mr. Titmarsh's
mind; and the charms of such a journey were eloquently impressed
upon him by Mr. James. "Come" said that kind and hospitable
gentleman "and make one of my family party; in all your life you
will never probably have a chance again to see so much in so short
a time. Consider--it is as easy as a journey to Paris or to
Baden." Mr. Titmarsh considered all these things; but also the
difficulties of the situation: he had but six-and-thirty hours to
get ready for so portentous a journey--he had engagements at home--
finally could he afford it? In spite of these objections
however with every glass of claret the enthusiasm somehow rose
and the difficulties vanished.
But when Mr. James to crown all said he had no doubt that his
friends the Directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Company
would make Mr. Titmarsh the present of a berth for the voyage all
objections ceased on his part: to break his outstanding
engagements--to write letters to his amazed family stating that
they were not to expect him at dinner on Saturday fortnight as he
would be at Jerusalem on that day--to purchase eighteen shirts and
lay in a sea stock of Russia ducks--was the work of four-and-
twenty hours; and on the 22nd of August the "Lady Mary Wood" was
sailing from Southampton with the "subject of the present memoir"
quite astonished to find himself one of the passengers on board.
These important statements are made partly to convince some
incredulous friends--who insist still that the writer never went
abroad at all and wrote the following pages out of pure fancy in
retirement at Putney; but mainly to give him an opportunity of
thanking the Directors of the Company in question for a delightful
excursion.
It was one so easy so charming and I think profitable--it leaves
such a store of pleasant recollections for after days--and creates
so many new sources of interest (a newspaper letter from Beyrout
or Malta or Algiers has twice the interest now that it had
formerly)--that I can't but recommend all persons who have time
and means to make a similar journey--vacation idlers to extend
their travels and pursue it: above all young well-educated men
entering life to take this course we will say after that at
college; and having their book-learning fresh in their minds see
the living people and their cities and the actual aspect of
Nature along the famous shores of the Mediterranean.
CHAPTER I: VIGO
The sun brought all the sick people out of their berths this
morning and the indescribable moans and noises which had been
issuing from behind the fine painted doors on each side of the
cabin happily ceased. Long before sunrise I had the good fortune
to discover that it was no longer necessary to maintain the
horizontal posture and the very instant this truth was apparent
came on deck at two o'clock in the morning to see a noble full
moon sinking westward and millions of the most brilliant stars
shining overhead. The night was so serenely pure that you saw
them in magnificent airy perspective; the blue sky around and over
them and other more distant orbs sparkling above till they
glittered away faintly into the immeasurable distance. The ship
went rolling over a heavy sweltering calm sea. The breeze was a
warm and soft one; quite different to the rigid air we had left
behind us two days since off the Isle of Wight. The bell kept
tolling its half-hours and the mate explained the mystery of watch
and dog-watch.
The sight of that noble scene cured all the woes and discomfitures
of sea-sickness at once and if there were any need to communicate
such secrets to the public one might tell of much more good that
the pleasant morning-watch effected; but there are a set of
emotions about which a man had best be shy of talking lightly--and
the feelings excited by contemplating this vast magnificent
harmonious Nature are among these. The view of it inspires a
delight and ecstasy which is not only hard to describe but which
has something secret in it that a man should not utter loudly.
Hope memory humility tender yearnings towards dear friends and
inexpressible love and reverence towards the Power which created
the infinite universe blazing above eternally and the vast ocean
shining and rolling around--fill the heart with a solemn humble
happiness that a person dwelling in a city has rarely occasion to
enjoy. They are coming away from London parties at this time: the
dear little eyes are closed in sleep under mother's wing. How far
off city cares and pleasures appear to be! how small and mean they
seem dwindling out of sight before this magnificent brightness of
Nature! But the best thoughts only grow and strengthen under it.
Heaven shines above and the humble spirit looks up reverently
towards that boundless aspect of wisdom and beauty. You are at
home and with all at rest there however far away they may be; and
through the distance the heart broods over them bright and wakeful
like yonder peaceful stars overhead.
The day was as fine and calm as the night; at seven bells suddenly
a bell began to toll very much like that of a country church and
on going on deck we found an awning raised a desk with a flag
flung over it close to the compass and the ship's company and
passengers assembled there to hear the Captain read the Service in
a manly respectful voice. This too was a novel and touching
sight to me. Peaked ridges of purple mountains rose to the left of
the ship--Finisterre and the coast of Galicia. The sky above was
cloudless and shining; the vast dark ocean smiled peacefully round
about and the ship went rolling over it as the people within were
praising the Maker of all.
In honour of the day it was announced that the passengers would be
regaled with champagne at dinner; and accordingly that exhilarating
liquor was served out in decent profusion the company drinking the
Captain's health with the customary orations of compliment and
acknowledgment. This feast was scarcely ended when we found
ourselves rounding the headland into Vigo Bay passing a grim and
tall island of rocky mountains which lies in the centre of the bay.
Whether it is that the sight of land is always welcome to weary
mariners after the perils and annoyances of a voyage of three
days or whether the place is in itself extraordinarily beautiful
need not be argued; but I have seldom seen anything more charming
than the amphitheatre of noble hills into which the ship now came--
all the features of the landscape being lighted up with a wonderful
clearness of air which rarely adorns a view in our country. The
sun had not yet set but over the town and lofty rocky castle of
Vigo a great ghost of a moon was faintly visible which blazed out
brighter and brighter as the superior luminary retired behind the
purple mountains of the headland to rest. Before the general
background of waving heights which encompassed the bay rose a
second semicircle of undulating hills as cheerful and green as the
mountains behind them were grey and solemn. Farms and gardens
convent towers white villages and churches and buildings that no
doubt were hermitages once upon the sharp peaks of the hills
shone brightly in the sun. The sight was delightfully cheerful
animated and pleasing.
Presently the Captain roared out the magic words "Stop her!" and
the obedient vessel came to a stand-still at some three hundred
yards from the little town with its white houses clambering up a
rock defended by the superior mountain whereon the castle stands.
Numbers of people arrayed in various brilliant colours of red
were standing on the sand close by the tumbling shining purple
waves: and there we beheld for the first time the Royal red and
yellow standard of Spain floating on its own ground under the
guardianship of a light blue sentinel whose musket glittered in
the sun. Numerous boats were seen incontinently to put off from
the little shore.
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